Campervan Buyer Checklist: Everything to Check Before You Pay

Buying a campervan is exciting - and that excitement is exactly what sellers rely on. The adrenaline of finding the right van can make it easy to skip the checks that protect you. This checklist exists to slow you down at the right moment. Work through it before you transfer any money.

📋 Legal & Paperwork

These checks happen before or during the inspection - not after. If a seller is evasive about any of these, that is the answer.

1. 1
   WOF valid - check the expiry date — The WOF sticker is on the windscreen. Note when it expires. A WOF expiring in the next few weeks means you are immediately paying for a new one - and any repairs needed to pass it.
2. 2
   Rego (registration) current — Verify at nzta.govt.nz using the plate number. Lapsed rego is a minor fix, but it tells you something about how the van has been maintained.
3. 3
   RUC up to date - diesel vehicles only — Check the odometer against the RUC distance purchased. Unpaid RUC can become your liability after purchase. Verify at nzta.govt.nz before you pay.
4. 4
   PPSR check completed — Run a Personal Property Securities Register check at ppsr.govt.nz using the VIN. It costs about $3 and tells you whether finance is still owing on the vehicle. If it is, the lender can repossess the van from you even after you've bought it. Non-negotiable.
5. 5
   Ownership transfer process confirmed — Both buyer and seller must complete the change of ownership at nzta.govt.nz within 7 days of sale. Confirm the seller knows this and is willing to do it.
6. 6
   VIN matches all documents — Compare the VIN on the dashboard (visible through the windscreen), the driver's door jamb, and the vehicle's paperwork. They must all match exactly.
7. 7
   Run a CarJam history check — Before you arrange a viewing, get a vehicle history report. It shows stolen status, any finance owing, WoF history, and odometer records. Use the Vanzy link to check on CarJam - it takes two minutes and costs $13.95 for the full report.

🔧 Mechanical Condition

You do not need to be a mechanic to do this. You need to be systematic. Bring a torch, wear clothes you can crouch in, and allow at least an hour.

1. 1
   Full service history — Ask for a logbook or service receipts. Gaps in history are not automatically disqualifying, but they should lower your offer and raise your questions.
2. 2
   Cambelt / timing belt replacement confirmed — This is critical for many diesel engines - especially popular van platforms like the Toyota Hiace and Nissan Caravan. Ask when it was last replaced and at what kilometre reading. A snapped cambelt can destroy an engine.
3. 3
   No rust - underbody, sills, and around windows — Bring a torch and get underneath. Surface rust on flat panels is manageable. Rust on structural rails, sills, or floor pans is not. Check around every window seal - water ingress here causes hidden rot.
4. 4
   Cooling system — Look for white residue around hoses or the radiator cap, and check the coolant colour (it should not be brown or rusty). Ask about the last coolant flush.
5. 5
   No oil leaks — Park the van on a clean surface before the inspection and check underneath both before and after the test drive.
6. 6
   Cold start test — Ask to see the van started from cold. Difficult or smoky cold starts reveal issues that are hidden once the engine warms up.
7. 7
   No overheating during test drive — Watch the temperature gauge throughout a test drive of at least 15 minutes. If it climbs above the normal band, stop immediately.
8. 8
   Transmission shifts smoothly — Test every gear including reverse. Hesitation, clunking, or slipping are expensive repair signals.
9. 9
   Suspension and steering — Drive over a speed bump slowly. Listen for clunks. On a straight road, briefly release the wheel - the van should track straight without pulling.
10. 10
    Tyre tread and wear pattern — Uneven wear across the tread width indicates alignment or suspension problems. Four replacement tyres for a van typically cost $600–$1,000+.

🏕 Camper Setup & Living System

The camper conversion is often where corners are cut. Test everything - not just look at it.

1. 1
   Self-contained certificate valid — Find the blue NZMCA sticker on the rear or side of the van. Check the expiry date (valid for 4 years). Verify the certificate number on nzmca.org.nz.
2. 2
   Fixed toilet present and compliant — The toilet must be fixed to the vehicle. Portable camping toilets do not meet the self-containment standard, regardless of what the seller says.
3. 3
   Fixed sink - drains correctly — Run water through it and check underneath the cabinet for leaks or soft wood from previous water damage.
4. 4
   Fresh water tank — Ask when it was last cleaned. A sour smell or visible algae means the tank needs treatment. Ask about the capacity - a useful minimum is 10 litres per person per day.
5. 5
   Grey water tank — Check underneath for staining, drips, or cracked fittings.
6. 6
   Solar system functioning — Test during the inspection. Ask for the panel wattage and controller make. A basic functional setup for van life is typically 100–200W of panels and 100Ah of battery.
7. 7
   Leisure battery health — Ask the age of the battery. If it is more than 3–4 years old, factor in replacement cost (typically $150–$300). A healthy battery should hold charge overnight without solar input.
8. 8
   All 12V lights and electrical outlets — Test every switch, light fitting, USB socket, and 12V outlet.
9. 9
   Gas system certified — If the van has a gas cooker or heater, there should be a compliance certificate. Uncertified gas installations are a genuine safety risk - not just a paperwork issue.
10. 10
    No water leaks inside — Feel the ceiling, around every window frame, and inside all overhead cupboards. Old water stains show as brown rings. Soft or spongy cabinetry means previous or ongoing ingress.

⚠ Red Flags - Walk Away

These are not negotiating points. They are reasons to leave.

• Seller refuses an independent mechanical inspection — A van with nothing to hide can withstand scrutiny. This is the single strongest red flag on the list.
• Pressure to pay immediately — "I have three other people coming to look at it today" may be true. It may not be. Either way, rushing payment is how you skip the checks that protect you.
• VIN numbers do not match — Mismatched VINs may indicate accident history, reregistration, or in serious cases, a stolen vehicle.
• WOF expired and seller minimises it — "It just needs a couple of small things" should come with a quote from a workshop, not a verbal reassurance.
• Rust explained as "just cosmetic" — Surface rust on flat panels is manageable. Rust on structural components is not. If you cannot tell the difference, find someone who can before you pay.
• Missing or vague paperwork — Legitimate sellers have documentation. Every gap is a question. If the answers are unsatisfying, so is the van.